Africa 2001

Zambia: Taita Falcon Lodge

Victoria Falls are on the Zambezi River, and at that point the river forms the boundary between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The better-known Victoria Falls town is on the Zimbabwe side, but for my money the Zambian side is the more interesting.

The town of Livingstone is a few kilometres from the falls in Zambia. Livingstone was the capital of what was then Northern Rhodesia from 1911 to 1935, when the capital was moved to Lusaka.

The deck at Taita Falcon Lodge

I had stayed at Taita Falcon Lodge in December 1999. When I learned that I would have to go through Victoria Falls to get to the eclipse, I was keen to get back and to see AnMarie and Faan, who own and run the Lodge.

Taita Falcon Lodge is a small lodge about 10km from Livingstone on a rickety road that drives through the Songwe Village.

This retreat is at the end of the deck overlooking the gorge down into the Zambezi River.

Batoka Gorge, Zambezi River, Zambia

This is the view from the deck outside the bar and dining area at Taita Falcon Lodge. Taita overlooks the Batoka Gorge of the Zambezi River. A sheer cliff drops 200m to the river, and the deck is perched on top of the cliff.

Taita is directly above rapid 17 on the Zambezi, downstream from Victoria Falls. From high on the cliff the water looks remarkably calm and quiet. Close-up, it must be ferocious. White-water rafters call this rapid "The Bitch" or "Double Trouble". A report of a New Zealander's white water rafting trip described this rapid as "a large V wave followed by 4 big breaking waves, then the meanest hole I have ever seen."

The Eagle Hawk room at Taita Falcon Lodge

The verandah outside my bungalow at Taita. These bungalows are built of natural materials to a local design, yet are fitted out all necessary modern conveniences.

When I visited Taita in December 1999 I was convinced I would be impossibly hot without air conditioning. This time I was convinced that I'd freeze to death without heating. Neither was the case, and I'm left wondering why we city-dwellers insist on building houses that are hot in summer and cold in winter.

Path in the grounds at Taita Falcon Lodge

The path leading to my bungalow within the grounds of Taita Falcon Lodge.

AnnMarie, owner and manager of Taita Falcon Lodge, Zambia

Anmarie, who with her husband, Faan, is owner and manager of Taita Falcon Lodge.

This picture was taken at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge where AnMarie and I shared lunch on the way to Victoria Falls airport.

Next: Etosha National Park, Namibia